Day 2: New Friends, A Rich Herdsman and Six hours in a Hyundai
Bernie AndersonThis is part two in a series of 'Travel Blogs' of my recent trip to White Lake in Arhaingai. These are are notes taken mostly from my journal while I was away, along with pictures of the trip. You may read part 1 here. You may view most of the photos here.
So without further adieu - Day 2
Breakfast at Tsetserleg was very nice - scrambled eggs and toast with coffee. It was during breakfast that I met a Mongolian guy with a car (a ten year old Hyundai that had definitely seen better days) who was willing to take me to Tariat (the little village that is south and east of White Lake). So for â‚®15,000 (less than $15) I agreed to let him take me there. Two hours later, after he got oil, gas, water, food and three more passengers we left Tsetserleg and drove six hours on non-roads in a Hyundai. It wasn't too bad of a trip. The country was absolutely beautiful. Many animals - including a lot of yak. We stopped at several guanz for milk tea, hoosier (a fried meat pie) and airag (horse milk that has been slightly fermented).
The other passengers included two guys who were also 'drivers' by profession, and a lady who is a teacher in Tariat. We listened to the the drivers cassette tapes the entire way there. The music varied between Mongolian hip-hop to some guy who sounded uncannily like Gene Autry singing Mongolian songs. The lady in the car sang along to every one of them. It was like a duet.
I had hoped to watch some of the Naadam festivities (Naadam is the summer festival of Mongolian independence. Featured are the three 'manly sports': Archery, Horse racing, and Mongolian wrestling). It was too late, though. We did see a bit of a horse race, though. By the time we reached Tariat the festival was breaking up.
The driver finally dropped me at a bridge on the edge of town and I began walking. It was a fascinating hike. I walked along a 7,000 year old lava flow. There are seven different dead volcanoes in the area. I ended up taking a road that led to the largest of these. Ancient lava flow and volcanic rock lay everywhere.
While walking up to the volcano I ran into a group of Mongolians visiting the area from UB. One lady spoke a little bit of English and invited me to join their group. The best I can understand they are here for a 15 year class reunion from University, it turns out they were fairly close to my age. In any case, they insisted that I ride with them to the Tsagaan Nuur - which was fine after hiking up to the top of the Volcano.
It was interesting talking to my new found Mongolian friends. Mongolian culture does not understand why anyone would come way out here by themselves. They don't like to be alone and in fact many are fearful of being by themselves. While I wanted to put my tent out of the way of people, These folks insisted that put my tent close to theirs. Now some others have arrived and I write this within earshot of their music and card games - and now there is a dog asleep at my feet outside my tent. Weird.
This evening (after eating some mighty tasty ramen) I ended up making acquaintance with a Mongolian herder. He is forty years old - my age almost. However he looked like he could have been 60 with his weathered skin and tough leathered hands. He is actually a wealthy herder with 20 horses, 100 sheep, 70 goats and 70 yak. A couple of folks from my class reunion friends were talking to him with me. Even the city folk seem to have a real romantic view of the country side. One lady asked if there were any wealthy herders who are single. I am assuming that she is single as well ... but you never know.
So the sun sets on White Lake (Tsagaan Nuur) and thus ends day two. I think it may rain tonight. It will be a good test for the tent. Hope I am dry in the morning.
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